Frequently Asked Questions

Bahia and seeded bermuda can go in any month here, but March through June tends to be easiest: the soil is warm and the heaviest storms have not arrived. Mid-summer works with heavier mulch and tackifier, and winter seeding needs dependable irrigation because December through February average only about 2 inches of rain a month.

National guides give a starting point: HomeGuide's range runs from 12 to 35 cents a square foot, and HomeAdvisor's from 6 to 20 cents. Thin soil over rock often means topsoil first, which adds to the job. We measure and quote on site, and the invoice matches the number we put in writing.

Sod is faster and is the only option for St. Augustine and for slopes over about 10 percent. Hydroseed costs less than sod and covers large or awkward areas well, but you wait several weeks for a mowable lawn. We will recommend one or the other after seeing the site.

Usually bahiagrass, seeded bermudagrass, or a blend. Bahia is deep-rooted and copes without irrigation; bermuda is denser and handles wear and salt but needs full sun. St. Augustine, by contrast, is planted only as sod, plugs or sprigs.

Tackifier binds the mulch and seed to the soil, and on flat ground a well-applied slurry usually holds. Swales, slopes and bare edges near drains are the weak spots, so we add blankets, raise the mulch rate or put silt fence downhill on those jobs.

HomeGuide puts the first mowing at 4 to 6 weeks; Angi suggests about six weeks, when the blades reach roughly 4 inches. Bahia can take longer to fill in. Keep foot traffic off until then.

Under Florida DEP rules, a job disturbing one acre of land or more, or a smaller lot within a larger plan of development, needs Construction Generic Permit coverage and a stormwater pollution prevention plan. Local permits are separate. We install the seeding and sediment controls the plan calls for.

According to UF/IFAS, St. Augustinegrass can only be started from sod, plugs or sprigs. There is no practical seed for it, so for a St. Augustine lawn we recommend sod.

In HomeGuide's figures, a 5,000 square foot yard runs $1,000 to $1,750, and LawnStarter notes most companies have a $300 to $500 minimum. Miami yards often need topsoil over rock, which is quoted separately after we measure.

Bermuda shows within a week or two in warm weather and fills in over several weeks. Bahia germinates more slowly and takes longer to form a full cover.

Yes, but you need a reliable hose setup for the first few weeks. Bahia is the better choice where long-term irrigation is limited, since it survives dry spells by going dormant and recovers when rain returns.

No. UF/IFAS advises waiting 30 to 60 days after planting so roots can use the nutrients instead of losing them to runoff or leaching.

Fixr puts an acre at $2,000 to $4,000, and LawnStarter at $2,136 to $4,897. Site prep, water hauling and slopes change that, so we quote from the plan.

Seeding and mulch are standard stabilization practices, but what counts as final stabilization is set by your permit and SWPPP. We apply what the plan specifies and can document the areas covered.

Yes. Gentle banks take seed and tackifier well. Steeper banks or areas where water runs get an erosion control blanket or a recommendation for sod.

We fill from a hydrant meter or on-site source arranged with the site manager. Water access is confirmed during the site walk.

Usually the grass never fully rooted before heavy rain, or the channel carries more water than seed alone can resist. Reshaping, then seed with a blanket, normally fixes it.

Blankets are best in channels and on banks where water runs over the surface. Sprayed products are faster on large or irregular slopes. We recommend one based on the slope and flow.

We can stabilize the upland slope down toward the water line. Work in or right at the water may need approval from the agency that manages the canal, so check first.

As the grass grows up through them, straw and coir blankets slowly rot away. Some types carry netting; we will tell you which one goes on your site.

The state CGP generally applies at one acre and up, but local permits can require sediment controls on smaller jobs. Check your permit conditions; we can install what they ask for.

Follow your plan's schedule, and always after heavy rain. In Miami's wet months, that can mean frequent checks.

Yes, but trenching takes more effort. Where a trench is not possible, other details such as stabilized fence or sediment logs may be used if the plan allows.

We can. Fence and inlet protection should come out once the site is stabilized, not before.

It depends on how much soil is already there. UF/IFAS suggests 3 to 6 cubic yards of organic amendment per 1,000 square feet mixed into the top 6 inches; very thin lots may need more topsoil than that. We measure at the visit.

Often, yes. Regrading to slope away from the house, and adding a drain where needed, solves most pooling. Water coming from a neighbor or the street may need a bigger fix.

Yes. We can grade and spread topsoil for a sod installer or landscaper, though most customers have us seed as well.

Shallow drainage trenches are usually fine. Because the aquifer is close to the surface, deeper digs can reach water, which is why our drainage work stays shallow.

Not with St. Augustine seed, because it is grown only from sod, plugs or sprigs. Spots in a St. Augustine lawn are best repaired with sod or plugs.

Possibly not. UF/IFAS notes bahia goes dormant in drought and usually greens up once rain or irrigation returns. Wait for the rains before deciding to reseed.

Bermuda patches often fill in over several weeks in warm weather; bahia takes longer. Color and texture match better when the seed matches the existing grass.

When bare ground and weeds take up over about half the lawn, a full renovation is usually better value than patching. We will tell you which we think fits.